Ulap Doyo, Dayak Benuaq Tribe Woven Fabric in East Kalimantan

Helloindonesia.id – The weaving of doyo has been designated as an intangible cultural heritage of Indonesia since 2013. This traditional weaving developed by the Benuaq Dayak tribe is one of the priceless wasteland of the archipelago.

Doyo ulap weaving has a special quality. Weaving is also environmentally friendly because it is made from natural ingredients. The yarn is made from doyo leaf fiber (Curliglia latifolia). The coloring also comes from various plants that grow in the forest.

Doyo is a type of wild plant that grows in the forest and in fields belonging to residents in East Kalimantan. This plant has strong fiber. The shape is similar to pandan leaves, but wider.

To be used as raw material for weaving, doyo leaves are dried and sliced ​​to follow the direction of leaf fibers to become fine fibers. These fibers are then woven and twisted to form coarse threads.

For dyes, various plants and other materials are used as ingredients. Red, for example, comes from glinggam, oter wood, and londo fruit. Chocolate is obtained from Uwar wood. The green color is obtained from the leaves of the shy princess. Yellow color of turmeric tuber. While the black color is obtained from the soot from the combustion of resin or the fiber of the leaves of the ancient tree.

Doyo silk weaving has been around for centuries. It is assumed that his age is almost the same as the age of the existence of the Hindu Kingdom of Kutai. This is corroborated by anthropological findings which state that the motive for doyo weaving shows the wearer’s social strata.

In the past, Waniq’s motives were embraced, for example, used by ordinary people, while the motives of Junta were used by nobles or kings.

In general, the motives of doyo woven cloth are taken from the flora and fauna on the banks of the Mahakam River. Motives are also inspired by the story of war between humans and dragons.

Rare Items

Unfortunately nowadays, doyo plants and various plants used as natural dyes are not easy to find. Land clearing for plantations and mining makes the forest even further away from residential areas.

Doyo, which is usually grown in the fields of the population, cannot be found either because the farmers are turning into mining workers and oil palm plantations.

The difficulty of finding doyo plants and natural dyes makes the craftsmen weave using threads to make fabrics with doyo motifs.

At present, the craftsmen use more chemical threads and dyes. Besides being easy to get raw materials, the manufacturing process is also faster. The process of making doyo silk weaving with natural ingredients can take up to one month. This causes doyo ulcers made from doyo leaves and natural dyes to be made less frequently.

In addition, weaving that uses yarn is more desirable because it is finer and can be used for clothing. While doyo tends to be rough and hard.

However, with increasing interest in natural products at this time, demand for doyo caterpillar from natural ingredients also increased. The doyo craftsmen, among others in the village of Tanjung Isuy and Mancong, again made woven fabric from plants and natural dyes.

However, the lack of availability of raw materials makes them not always able to fulfill the request.

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